Chalkida (Chalcis) on Evia Island, Less Visited Greece
We moved to Athens a few years ago. Soon enough, we were traveling around the islands. Little did we know that Chalkida was one of the nicest places to visit in Greece. What’s more, Chalkida city is just 50 miles (80 km) from Athens. However, it is worlds apart. The area is scarcely populated and packed with gorgeous beaches.
Chalkida is the biggest settlement on Evia Island, the closest to the Attica peninsula. The city is on the peninsula and the island. The area on the peninsula is called Xirovrisi. To go from one to the other, all you have to do is cross Chalkida’s Old Bridge. Both sections are beautiful and worth your time. Take note that some Greeks call Chalkida city Chalcis.
How to Get to Chalkida
Driving to Chalkida
Driving to Chalkida from Athens takes a bit over an hour. All you have to do is exit central Athens and take the road to Thessaloniki. The road is called Pireos-Athinon-Thessalonikis. You can take it directly from Piraeus port. Likewise, you can take it from Athens Airport. After some 45 minutes, you will see the signs to Chalcis Regional.
It’s a safe drive on a modern highway. We believe Greeks drive better on highways than in cities, so you have nothing to worry about. Note that you will have to pay a toll. It’s less than 3.5 euros. The road will take you pretty close to Tatoi Palace, the former residence of the deposed King. The forest around the palace is amazing.
You can rent a car online here.
Trains to Chalkida
We went from Athens to Chalkida on the train and had a great time. We always try to take public transportation anywhere we go. There are trains every other hour, and the journey takes approximately 1 hour 20 minutes. Trains leave from Athens Central Station. You can take the metro to go to the train station from anywhere in Athens.
The closest metro station to Athens train station is Larissa, on the red line. It’s the line that goes from the Akropoli and stops in Syntagma Square. The earliest train leaves at 4:30 AM, and the latest at 11:30 PM. The same applies to return trains. The ticket costs from 3 to 9 euros each way. Trains arrive pretty close to the center of Chalkida.
Buses to Chalkida
There are buses too, but these can take up to 3 hours. However, most take the advertised 1.5 hours. The journey is an attraction in itself, so be sure to grab a window seat. We took a bus once because the trains were on strike. Buses in Greece are pretty safe. Drivers never exceed the speed limit and the units are in good shape.
Buses to Chalkida leave from the KTEL Liosion station on 43 Dagkli Street. The closest metro station is Agios Nikolaos, on the green line that goes to Piraeus. This one stops in Monastiraki and Omonia squares. There are buses almost every hour, starting at 6:30 AM. The last one is at 10 PM. The bus station in Chalkida is across the New Archeological Museum, away from the center.
Where to Stay in Chalkida
Chalkida, like all of Greece, has fantastic hotels. The best hotel near Chalkida is the Amaronda Resort & Spa. It’s a luxurious hotel with a private beach, a gorgeous pool, and a state-of-the-art spa. The hotel is 10 miles (16 km) from Chalkida city. Take an inexpensive taxi, and you’ll be there in 20 minutes.
The best hotel in the city proper is the Almira Mare, on Xirovrisi. That’s the quiet part of town, just 10 minutes by taxi to the center. It’s a beachfront property with a big pool set in lush green gardens. To stay in the city center, book a room at the Paliria Hotel. It offers super comfortable rooms and memorable sea views.
Things to Do in Chalkida (Chalcis)
Climb the Karababa Castle
Chalkida’s most famous attraction is the Karababa Castle. The beautiful fortress sits on a hill just 15 minutes walking from Chalkida’s seaside promenade. The Ottomans built it in 1684 to protect Evia Island from the Venetians. However, Venetian architect Gerolimo Galopo designed it. That’s why it looks European. It’s an easy way up. However, if you are tired, hop on a taxi.
The structure is well preserved. Walk along the grounds and search for the two Russian cannons, a bell tower, a defense tower, and a couple of bastions. Be sure to check Prophet Elias Church from 1895 within the compound. There’s also an onsite museum with a couple of interesting sculptures. The views from the castle will take your breath away. Free entrance!
Walk along the Sea Promenade
Of all the things to do in Chalkida, a walk along the sea promenade is mandatory. It’s the nicest part of the city. That’s why locals visit all day long. Restaurants, hotels, bars, and shops line the promenade. Note that the promenade begins on Asteria Beach in Xirovrisi and ends on Agios Nikolaos plaza, in Chalkida city.
The section on Xirovrisi is smaller but offers great views of the city proper. We are talking about some 1500 feet (400 m) from Asteria beach to the bridge. Once you cross the bridge, you’ll be in the center. This is the most visited section, where most bars and restaurants are. Pick your favorite tavern and mingle with the locals.
Visit a Synagogue and a Jewish Cemetery
Though Greece is mostly a Christian Orthodox country, Jews have always been part of its culture. In fact, the Jewish settlement in Chalkida is one of the oldest in Greece. Historic records indicate that Jews lived north of the fortress 2000 years ago! The original synagogue was destroyed in 1854. The one we can see today is from 1855.
The Synagogue is two blocks from the Archaeological Museum. The Cemetery is a 15 minute walk to the east. It’s a 17-acre lovely park with tall trees. Actually, there’s a new cemetery and an old one. Some of the tombs in the old section are over 1000 years old! There’s a memorial for the Jews that died in the holocaust.
Learn History in the Archeological Museum
Just like in most cities in Greece, there’s an Archaeological Museum in Chalkida. The museum is a neoclassical building from the early 20th Century. It’s a small museum on Venizelou Street, a 5-minute walk from the seaside promenade. It opens from 8:30 AM to 3:30 PM every day except Tuesdays. However, the collection inside is pretty interesting.
It’s got three exhibit halls and a lovely courtyard. The first hall exhibits pieces from the Neolithic period. Most of the artifacts were found on the island of Evia. There are also Roman pieces. The coin collection is particularly interesting. The newest pieces are from the 1st Century AC. That’s how old Greece is! Spend some time in the courtyard admiring the sculptures.
Get Lost in the Old Town
Chalkida’s Old Town is a maze of little streets and aisles. The old town is the area from the sea promenade all the way to the Jewish Cemetery. Orange trees and all kinds of plants line the streets. All you have to do is walkabout. It can get very hot in Chalkida in summer, so don’t forget to wear a hat.
The atmosphere is very relaxed. Local people visit the area to grab a bite, shop and socialize. There are several churches and traditional Greek houses to discover. The Cultural Museum of Chalkida is in the center. It’s a refurbished old industrial plant. Go in and learn about the history of Evia.
Visit the Saint Paraskevi Church
The Church of Saint Paraskevi is the most relevant medieval building in the city. The original church was built in the 5th Century AD. The one we can see today is most likely from the 17th Century. Regardless of its age, the temple will take your breath away. The church in the old town is five minutes walking from the sea promenade.
As important as this Byzantine temple is, it’s simple and elegant. We are talking about a three-nave church with tall white-washed walls. The wooden roof is one of the oldest Venetian roofs in the world. Go inside and prepare to be dazzled. You can see original frescoes and exquisite decorations. There are catacombs beneath the church!
Visit the Chalcis Mosque
Locals call the temple Emir Zade Mosque. It’s pretty near to Saint Paraskevi Church. We are talking about a splendid Ottoman Mosque from the 15th Century. Besides, it’s in great condition. Mohammed the Conqueror built it after taking over Evia. Rumor has it that he destroyed a church that was on the spot. Look out for the archaeological remains outside the mosque.
Today, part of the mosque has been left untouched, and part is a museum. The collection is mostly Byzantine. We liked the maps of the city from the 16th and 18th Centuries. You can also see some of the original water channels. The courtyard is beautiful. Look for Mehmed Fountain in the courtyard. There are also ottoman tombs.
Enjoy Delicious Food
In Chalkida, you can enjoy some of the best food in the country. Since most restaurants cater to the local population, the food is traditional and varied. Delicious taverns dot the entire city. Our favorite is Grocery 1922, near the Mosque. The store/restaurant is 100 years old! You will want to eat and buy everything.
The best grill in the city is Gourounaki, on the sea promenade. Everything is locally sourced and delicious. To eat with views of the city, head to Tsafaki Chalkida, two blocks from the bridge in Xirovrisi. The best seafood restaurant is Giannis. The seafront tavern is on Athanathon Square. Our favorite coffee shop is Mostar, by the bridge. Killer views guaranteed.
Spend Some Time on the Beach
The nicest in the area is Alykes Beach, a 10-minute drive from the center of Chalkida. It’s a splendid sandy beach with crystal blue waters. You can rent umbrellas and lounges or take your own. If you get hungry, you’ve got great restaurants to choose from. We love it because it’s near the city, but there are no big buildings.
Chalkida has a couple of nice urban beaches. Our favorite is Asteria Beach, on Xirovrisi. It’s a sandy beach with tall trees and calm waters. Kourenti Beach is on Evia Island. It’s another sandy beach with blue waters. From there, walk to the Lighthouse Bad Head of Chalkida. The gorgeous park and lighthouse is the best place to enjoy sunsets.
Organize a Day Trip to Eretria
Eretria is on the island of Evia, the second-largest in Greece. The little town is only 12 miles (20 km) from Chalkida. You can take a public bus from the center and be in Eretria in approximately 45 minutes. Ask directly at the train station for directions to the bus stop. You are in Greece: people are super nice and friendly!
A taxi from Chalkida to Eretria takes 20 minutes and should cost no more than 25 eur. Since Eretria was important in ancient Greece, it has an archeological park with a museum and an ancient amphitheater. Today, the town is very atmospheric and authentic. You’ll probably be the only foreigner. The best beaches are the ones at the Amaronta and Negroponte luxury hotels.
Wonderful article on Chalkida!
Thank you!