Things to Do in Heraklion, the Capital of Crete
The first time we went to Heraklion was as for a stopover on our way to the beach in Crete. We weren’t expecting much so we thought a night would do.
To our surprise we ended up staying longer. Though the city is not as pretty as Rethymno or Chania, it has superb historic architecture, an extraordinary Archaeological Museum, and is the gateway to Knossos.
We’ve been back several times, discovered other interesting sites, and fallen in love with the city’s vibe. Heraklion is a university city. Thus, its relaxed vibrant atmosphere. You simply can’t skip it!
Explore the Palace of Knossos
According to some historians, Knossos is the oldest city in Europe. According to us, it’s absolutely fantastic. We could feel the Minotaur walking around the 1600 BC temple.
The remains are some 3 miles (5 km) from Heraklion. We took a public bus. Bus 02 leaves from the Central Bus Station, a 3-minute walk from the Archaeological Museum. The trip lasts 20 minutes.
The site is smaller than what we had imagined. Granted, some of the remains are just stones. However, nothing beats experiencing Greek Mythology. If you visit in summer, avoid going between noon and 2 PM. It’s scorching hot!
Visit the Archeological Museum
We believe it’s best to visit the museum after the archaeological site. It’s the best way of understanding Minoan culture. You can buy a separate ticket or a combined one with the remains.
We spent 3 hours inside the museum. That’s how incredible it is. Everything is chronologically organized with clear signs and lots of information. The displays are beautiful and grand.
Our favorites where the mysterious Phaistos Disc and the gorgeous frescoes. The building itself is interesting. The 1950s masterpiece is a superb example of Bauhaus architecture.
Explore the Two Main Squares
Heraklion’s main drag is 25th of August Street. The local market is there. We usually browse around, grab a bite, and mingle with the locals. The epicenter of the Old Town is one block of the market, where El. Venizelou and Kallergion squares meet.
We always have coffee directly in front of the city’s icon: the 16th Century Morosini Fountain. The Heraklion Municipal Gallery faces the square. The original 1239 Venetian Church was later a Mosque and is now a superb free museum.
The lavish Venetian Loggia is next. The 1628 building is now the city’s hall. Go inside and check out its beautiful courtyard.
Visit the Cathedral of Saint Titus
The first time we saw the Cathedral of Saint Titus we didn’t recognize it. The building doesn’t look like a church. The original 1856 building was an Ottoman Mosque. It became a church in 1925.
When we went inside, we couldn’t believe our eyes. There we were staring at a rich wooden Christian altar under the light filtering from a Muslim dome and the stained-glass windows!
There are chandeliers, icons, and delicate sculptures. Look out for the skull of St. Titus. The Venetians took the head to Venice in 1669. The Italians returned it in 1966. Creepy right?
Roam along the Venetian Port
Pedestrian 25th of August Street ends at the coast. The Venetian Port is there. After people watching and chilling at any of the coffee houses on the street, we go to the port to catch a killer sunset.
Listening to the waves crashing against the giant stone structure, while the sun goes down and paints the sea golden, is truly magical. Then the lights go on and you can see the 16th Century Koules Fortress fully illuminated in all of its glory.
There’s a museum inside with old cannons and artifacts. Don’t skip the Venetian Shipyards, in front of the giant old anchor.
Walk along the Coast
We avoid the area east of the fortress. The commercial port with cruises is there, so it’s not pretty. We love walking from the fortress to the west.
We walk on the sidewalk with the sea to our right. Saint Peter’s Monastery will be on your left. It’s usually closed but worth seeing from outside. The neoclassical Historical Museum of Crete is next.
It’s an interesting museum. What we like the most is the coffee house on the rooftop with great views over the sea. Walk further along the coast till you see the Natural History Museum on your right. It used to be the city’s power station.
Get Lost on the Streets of Heraklion’s Most Authentic Neighborhood
We have to be honest, the area west of Stilianou ke Nikoalou Giamalaki Street is not pretty in a traditional sort of way. But that’s exactly why we love it! The neighborhood is as authentic as it gets with crumbling houses and lots of character.
From the coast go through the venetian Dermatas Gate to the 1666 Priouli Fountain. It’s a weird fountain with Arabic letters and a renaissance pediment.
Walk aimlessly about the neighborhood and go back to the coast to see the Tobacco Cutting Factory from the 19th Century. Make sure to spot some of Heraklion’s best street art.
Visit the Agios Minas Cathedral
Heraklion is full of catholic churches and mosques converted to orthodox churches. Everybody wanted Crete and as soon as they set foot in the city they built their temples.
Agios Minas Cathedral is not that old (1895) but it’s pretty much alive. The huge temple impresses for its size, delicate details, and the locals that visit to pray. We’ve been told many times that you can go up the bell tower, but always found it locked.
Notice the tiny chapel next to the Cathedral. There’s another church behind which homes now the Museum of St. Ekaterini. We didn’t find it interesting.
Look for Nikos Kazantzakis Tomb
If you haven’t heard of Nikos Kazantzakis buy all of his books now. One of the best authors ever was born in Heraklion. Since one of us is an avid reader, we had to go to his tomb.
It’s at the end of the old town, on top of the impressive Venetian walls. The tomb is set in a lush garden with trees.
From there, you can see Mount Juktas. The mountain towers above Heraklion. Zorba the Greek begins describing the hill. Ok. Maybe we got a little bit carried away with the site, but trust us, it’s a beautiful spot.
Spend Some Time on the Beach
In all truth, the beaches in Heraklion pale in comparison to other beaches around Crete. No beach can compete with Elafonisi! However, the city has good enough beaches with crystal waters.
There are no beaches in the city center. The ones to the east, close to the airport, are noisy. We never go there. We are talking about the beaches to the west. In particular about Ammoudara.
We went only once. We took bus 06 from Bembo Fountain (1550) in the Old Town. The journey takes 20 minutes. It’s a long sandy beach with bars. Nothing special, but handy in the middle of summer.
Where to Stay in Heraklion
We strongly recommend staying in or around the Old Town. We spent a weekend at incredible GDM Megaron Hotel. Built in 1925 in front of the port, it has a fancy lobby and a rooftop pool with epic views.
However, our go to hotel is the Infinity City Boutique, in the middle of the old town. The rooms are super comfy and the complimentary breakfast delicious. The top floor rooms have balconies with sea views.
If you want to stay next to the beach, book a room at the Agapi Beach Resort. The all-inclusive resort has 3 huge pools and extensive gardens. It faces the sea and has its own complimentary lounges and umbrellas. It’s worth every penny.
