Chania or Heraklion in Crete – Which One to Visit?
The only reason why you should decide between Chania or Heraklion is time constraints. If you have enough time, do yourself a favor and go to both places. As you probably know, we moved to Greece a couple of years ago. Since then, we’ve been traveling extensively around the country, both on the continent and the islands.
Though we really wanted to go to Crete, we never had the time; until now. The island is a feast to the senses and exceeded our high expectations. The same can be said about Chania and Heraklion. Both cities are fascinating, quite different, and for sure worth a visit.
Quick Comparison
Let’s take a look at both cities. Heraklion is the capital of Crete. As such, is a much bigger city, 150,000 inhabitants, while Chania has some 50,000. Chania is famous around Greece for its incredible architecture. Though Heraklion has several impressive buildings, it pales in comparison to Chania.
On the other hand, Heraklion is more authentic, for lack of a better word. Both have a lively local population, but Chania is more touristy. Take note that both cities are on the north shore of Crete, Chania to the west and Heraklion to the east. Most people agree that Crete’s best beaches are in the south.
If You Have to Choose
Remember that both cities are just 90 miles (150 km) away. Thus, you can go from one to the other on the same day. Several buses a day connect them in about 3 hours. That said, if you have to choose between Heraklion or Chania, we strongly recommend Chania. Nothing compares to Chania. The mix between Ottoman, Greek, and Venetian architecture will blow your mind away.
Likewise, you won’t believe the number and quality of the restaurants that dot the city. You will step back in time while enjoying luxurious hotels and incredible restaurants. However, go to Heraklion if you are into archaeology. Heraklion offers some of the best archaeological remains in the Mediterranean.
Chania City
We traveled from Rethymnon to Chania City by bus. As you approach the city, you notice two distinct sections: the modern one, on the slope of the hills, and the old, on the coast. The bus station is in the center, next to the Old Town, so the magic begins as soon as you exit the bus.
The city is simply stunning, impeccably clean, and with a wonderful atmosphere. Lovely plants line the streets and provide shade. There are coffee houses, taverns, and restaurants everywhere. What we liked the most is that Chania is a real city, not built for tourists and Disneyesque. The place is pretty much alive and real!
Chania Old Town
Chania’s Old Town is not that big. That said, you can spend days discovering gorgeous houses hidden amongst its leafy streets. There isn’t a single ugly building. Everything is in great shape and you feel safe while walking about.
It is easy not to get lost since the port and the fortress are great orientation points. However, getting lost without a rush is totally advisable. You will feel the rhythm of the city conquer you. Take note that you cannot bathe in the heart of the Old Town. For that, you must walk a couple of minutes north to a lovely beach.
Main Sights
The Old Port is Venetian and boasts the one and only Küçük Hasan Pasha Mosque, built by the Ottomans after conquering the city in 1649. Gorgeous Venetian palaces surround the mosque. At the tip of the port stands the Lighthouse of Chania, built by the Venetians in the 16th Century but reconstructed by the Egyptians in the 1820s.
On the other side of the port, there is the Archaeological Museum and the Venetian Fortress beneath the Salvatore Bastion. A block from the port, is the stunning Orthodox Cathedral on the main plaza. From there, it’s a short walk to Saint Nikolaos Church, a Venetian church with an Ottoman minaret.
Chania City Beach
Chania has a fantastic city beach. Nea Chora is a long wide sandy beach just off the center of Chania. To get there, it’s possible to walk north along the port and loop around the fortress and marina. The best sunsets in Chania are here, on a sidewalk overlooking the sea.
Several restaurants, coffee houses, and hotels line the beach. You can rent your umbrella and sunbed from your favorite one. There are umbrellas and sunbeds for rent. Hrisi Akti and Agii Apostoli, two nice beaches, are further north. Since they are not really urban beaches, they tend to be less crowded. Both offer sunbeds and places to eat.
Chania Regional Unit
The Chania Regional Unit is the westernmost administrative region in Crete (there are four). Chania is the only city in the region. Once you exit the city, you’ll find yourself in the middle of some of the best natural places in Crete. Chania Region is known for its wonderful hiking routes. Some of the best are around Mount Pachnes, the highest of the White Mountains.
Getting to the top requires a night’s sleepover. That’s why most people follow the track from Anopolis (closer to the coast) to Roussies (closer to the peak). However, Crete’s most famous natural spot is Samaria Gorge, on the southern coast of the Chania Regional Unit.
Best Beaches in Chania Region
The best beach in the region is Elafonisi. In fact, it is one of the best beaches in Crete, Greece, Europe, and the World. Nothing can compare to its pink sand, thousands of blues and greens, and relaxed atmosphere. We could have stayed there for a month! Some consider Balos the nicest beach in Chania, while others Falassarna, or Frangokastelo.
So clearly, many of Crete’s nicest beaches are here, in Chania Regional Unit. What we loved about these beaches is how raw and natural they feel. However, you are in Greece, so you will enjoy comfortable sunbeds, umbrellas, delicious coffee, and a peaceful environment.
Where to Stay in Chania
The best places to stay in Chania are Chania’s Old Town and Elafonisi beach. Take note that you can’t stay on the beach proper, but just a short walk away. That is why the beach is so pristine. The best place to stay in Elafonissi is the grand Elafonisi Resort by Kalomirakis Family: perfect facilities, unbeatable location, and wonderful views.
In Chania, we strongly recommend the Old Town. To us, the best hotel is the Domus Renier Boutique Hotel: 9 luxurious suites in a historic mansion you will never forget. Since it’s so small, it may be fully booked so we also recommend the Vilelmine Hotel, on the main plaza.
Heraklion City
Zorba the Greek, by Nikos Kazantzakis, begins describing gorgeous Mount Juktas presiding over Heraklion City. The city has changed a lot since Kazantzakis times, but the gorgeous mountain is still there. Heraklion is a typical Greek city. Nondescript buildings from the 60s onwards coexist with outstanding historic ones.
Heraklion is the heart of Crete and is essential in understanding Greek and European history. We are talking about a history that goes back thousands of years! Some of the oldest archaeological remains in the world are a step away.
Heraklion Old Town
The jewel of Heraklion is its fantastic Old Town. Most of it is pedestrian, so you will enjoy its beauty in peace. Every walk should start at the Venetian Port followed by a climb to a small hill that offers fantastic views.
The car-free 25th of August Street, is the lifeline of the Old Town. This is the place to people watch and mingle with the locals. The number of restaurants and coffee houses in the Old Town is surprising, so foodies and coffee lovers will be in heaven.
Main Sights
Most of Heraklion’s main attractions are in the Old Town proper and close enough to discover walking. To the east of the port, you’ll find the Venetian City Walls and the Castle.
The impressive Saint Titus Church, the Morosini Lions Fountain, the Venetian Loggia, and the Archaeological Museum are along the 25th of August Street. Further up the street to the east, there is the Bembo Fountain. The fantastic Agios Minas Cathedral is to the west.
Heraklion City Beach
There are no beaches in Heraklion city proper. The closest beach to the east of the city is Karteros Beach. Though it is a nice semi-bay sandy beach, it’s next to the airport, so we do not recommend it.
Amoudara Beach, approximately 4 miles (6 kilometers) to the west of the city, is the nicest. It’s a long wide sandy beach popular with the local Heraklion crowd. Fancy resorts, big hotels, and all sorts of eateries line the beach.
Heraklion Regional Unit
Heraklion is the capital of the Heraklion Regional Unit, the most populated one out of the four in Crete. Likewise, it’s the one with the most spectacular archeological sites in Crete. To the south of the Unit, we find Gortyna, one of the oldest cities on the island during the Hellenistic period. To the east, there’s Agia Triada, the ruins of a small Minoan palace.
No, we have not forgotten Knossos, the best archaeological site in Crete. Some consider it the oldest city in Europe. The place dates back to the Bronze Age. It’s just some 3 miles (5 km) from Heraklion center so you can take a public bus.
Best Beaches in Heraklion Region
Matala is the nicest beach in the region, some 40 miles (65 km) to the south of the city. It’s on the southern shore of the island. The journey there takes you through the mountains and close to a lake, an area known for hikes. Matala is a small beach, flanked by beautiful rocks.
The other two famous beaches in the Heraklion Region are Hersonissos and Malia, some 20 miles (30 km) east of the city, on the northern shore. These are nice enough beaches, but mostly for the young to party.
Where to Stay in Heraklion
The best places to stay in Heraklion are in the Old Town. For us, the best hotel is the GDM Megaron Hotel, built in 1925 and registered as a National Monument. Located in front of the port, this absolutely gorgeous building was meticulously updated to include modern-day amenities. The lobby is a masterpiece, and the pool up on the terrace, a dream.
The best place to stay in Matala is Nikos Hotel. They offer super comfy and clean rooms, a lovely garden, and impeccable service. They have a couple of splendid villas too.
Other Places to Stay in Crete
Granted, Chania and Heraklion are the most famous cities in Crete. However, Rethymno and Agios Nikolaos are two of the best places where to stay in Crete. We fell in love with Rethymno. It’s the third-largest city in Crete and the one with the best city beach. The Old Town is pretty impressive too, a mix of Greek, Ottoman, and Venetian architecture. The biggest university in Crete is in Rethymno, so it’s fun and upbeat.
Agios Nikolaos is a tiny port east of Heraklion with a lake in the middle. We weren’t expecting much and were so pleasantly surprised! You can stop there on your way to Vai, one of the best beaches in Crete.
