Paleo-Christian and Byzantine Churches of Thessaloniki
Greece’s second-largest city is full of architectural wonders. Historically, Thessaloniki was also the second most important city in the Byzantine Empire, and many monuments from that period still stand today.
Conquered by the Ottomans in 1430, the city retained its importance, and much of its heritage escaped destruction. It also largely survived the devastating fire of 1917.
Today, Thessaloniki boasts one of the largest collections of Early Christian and Byzantine architecture. Its city walls, baths, churches, and monasteries are all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Here are the top 10 churches you should explore on your next visit:
Rotunda of Galerius (Rotunda of Saint George)
4th Century
The Rotunda of Galerius, also known as the Rotunda of Saint George, is the oldest and most famous monument in the city. Roman Emperor Galerius built it at the beginning of the 4th century as his mausoleum, together with the adjacent Arch of Galerius.
In the late 4th century, the Rotunda was converted into a Christian temple. It remained one until 1590, when it became a mosque. In 1912, it was reconverted into a church. Today it functions as a museum but is occasionally used for worship.
As its name suggests, the Rotunda is a circular building topped with a massive dome. Originally a simple cylindrical structure, it later gained an apse and aisle when converted into a church. Only a few of the original mosaics have survived.
Church of the Acheiropoietos
5th Century
The Church of Acheiropoietos is the oldest surviving church structure in Thessaloniki. In Byzantine times, it was known as Panagia Theotokos (Mary, Mother of God). In 1320, a miracle was said to occur here when an icon of the Virgin appeared without human intervention, giving the church its current name, ‘Acheiropoietos’ (not made by hands).
It was the first church converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest (known as as the Old Mosque) and remained one for nearly 500 years. It became a church again in 1930.
It’s a three-nave basilica with a flat roof, a large narthex on the west side, and a semicircular apse on the east. A small chapel of Saint Irene stands next to the apse. Tall columns separate the naves, and galleries run along both sides.
Church of Saint Demetrius (Hagios Demetrios)
7th Century
This church is dedicated to Saint Demetrius, the patron saint of Thessaloniki. For centuries, it was the second-largest church in the Byzantine Empire, after Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
The first church was built here in the 4th century over a Roman bath. A three-nave basilica followed in the 5th century but was damaged by fire. By the mid-7th century, it was rebuilt as a five-nave basilica, a structure that survives to this day.
The building was used as a mosque from 1430 until 1912. It suffered great damage in the fire of 1917, but was fully restored and reopened in 1948. The crypt, containing historical elements, is open to visitors.
Church of Saint Sophia (Hagia Sophia)
7th Century
The Church of Saint Sophia is among the Thessaloniki’s most visited sites. The first church here was built in the 3rd century but burned down in the 7th century. It was replaced with the current structure, modeled after Hagia Sophia in Istanbul.
From 1205 to 1224, it served as Thessaloniki’s Catholic cathedral. Between 1523 and 1913, it was a mosque. It was damaged in the 1978 earthquake.
Saint Sophia is a Greek-cross basilica with a dome. The central nave columns are set aside to create an equal-armed cross shape. Many original mosaics are still visible.
Church of Panagia Chalkeon
11th Century
Built in 1028, Panagia Chalkeon is the fifth-oldest church in the city. Its original name is unknown, but during Ottoman times it was called Kazantzilar Mosque (Mosque of the Coppersmiths), reflecting the surrounding neighborhood.
It remained a mosque until 1912 and was damaged in the 1932 Ierissos earthquake. It was thoroughly restored afterward.
The church features a typical cross-in-square layout with a central dome. A two-story narthex lies to the west, covered with two smaller domes, and the sanctuary occupies the eastern apse.
Church of Saint Catherine
14th Century
Saint Catherine’s Church is one of the least known. Its original name is unknown, and there are few historical sources.
It is believed to have been built in the early 14th century and dedicated to Christ. It was converted into a mosque under Sultan Bayezid II (1481–1512) and remained one until liberation in 1912.
The church has a cross-in-square base with a closed ambulatory around the naos. Two identical chapels sit on the east side. A large central dome is supported by four smaller ones in each corner.
Church of Saint Panteleimon
14th Century
The origins of the Church of Saint Panteleimon are also unclear. It is believed to have been the Monastery of Kyr Isaac, built by Thessaloniki’s bishop between 1295 and 1315.
It became a mosque in 1548 under the name Mosque of Ishak. In 1912, it was dedicated to Saint Panteleimon, the patron of physicians and midwives.
It’s a cross-in-square structure with a central dome and a narthex. A covered ambulatory once surrounded it, but was destroyed in the early 20th century. A portion of the Ottoman minaret and a marble fountain remain.
Church of the Saviour (Naós Metamorphóseos)
14th Century
Two things make the Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour unique: it is the smallest Byzantine church in the city, and it was never converted into a mosque.
There are two theories explaining why it remained a church. It was either due to its small size, or because of its location within a Christian neighborhood. What is certain is its foundation date: the year 1350.
The church has an inscribed tetraconch plan with four semicircular niches, one of which forms the apse. A western narthex was added in 1936. The building is topped with a large octagonal dome.
Church of the Holy Apostles
14th Century
The Church of the Holy Apostles was likely the katholikon (main church) of a monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary, built in the early 14th century.
During Ottoman rule, it became a mosque, probably in the 1520s, called the ‘Mosque of the Cold Water.’ Its current name dates to the 19th century.
This church follows a cross-in-square layout with five domes. A U-shaped ambulatory surrounds the naos, and there are two chapels on the eastern side.
Church of Prophet Elijah
14th Century
Located at the entrance of the Old Town, one of Thessaloniki’s nicest neighborhoods, the Church of Prophet Elijah may have once been the katholikon of the Akapniou Monastery, associated with the ruling Palaiologos dynasty.
It became the Palace Mosque during Ottoman times, mistakenly believed to be part of a Byzantine palace.
The layout is a tetrastyle cross-in-square, with side chambers (choruses) on all four sides, two of them used as sacristies and the others as chapels. A large dome covers the center, and a spacious narthex lies to the west.
How to Visit the Churches
You can visit the churches on your own, join an organized tour, or hire a private guide. All ten are within walking distance of each other. Visiting these churches is one of the best things to do in winter.
If you’re short on time, visit the Rotunda and four nearby churches in under an hour (see map). To learn more during your visit, consider hiring a private guide. Note that you’ll need to cover their entry fee.
If you’re into cycling, there are great tours covering the Rotunda and Saint Sophia. You can choose between standard and e-bike tour.
